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The Reuben is one of the great grilled sandwiches: corned beef, Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and Russian or Thousand Island dressing, all griddled between slices of rye until the outside is crisp and the inside is molten. Its exact origin is disputed, with competing claims from a Nebraska grocer and a New York deli, but the sandwich itself needs no defense. March 14 is the day to make one.
The keys to a great one
Two things separate a memorable Reuben from a soggy disappointment. The first is managing moisture. Sauerkraut carries a lot of liquid, so squeeze it dry in a clean towel and warm it in a pan before building. Wet kraut will steam your bread from the inside and leave you with a limp sandwich.
The second is patience at the stove. Butter the outside of the rye and cook over medium-low heat so the cheese has time to melt completely before the bread scorches. A press or a second pan set on top keeps everything in contact for even browning.
Griddle it slow, and the cheese should be melted by the time the rye turns golden.
Make the dressing yourself
The dressing is easy to improve on. Russian and Thousand Island are close cousins built from mayonnaise, ketchup or chili sauce, and a little relish or minced pickle. Whisking your own takes two minutes, tastes fresher, and lets you dial the sweetness and tang to your liking. Make a little extra for dipping.
Good rye matters as well. A loaf with real caraway and a firm crumb stands up to the filling and adds its own flavor. Marbled rye looks handsome, too, if you can find it.
Variations worth knowing
Once you have mastered the classic, the variations open up. Swap the corned beef for pastrami and the sauerkraut for coleslaw and you get a Rachel, which is a touch lighter and tangier. Turkey stands in nicely for a leaner version, and a vegetarian Reuben built on roasted mushrooms or grilled portobello has its own devoted following.
Serve any of them the diner way: a crunchy dill pickle on the side, a handful of kettle chips, and something cold to drink. A dark beer or a cream soda both stand up to the richness. However you build it, the Reuben rewards a little care, and March 14 is the perfect day to give it that attention.
How to celebrate
- 1Griddle low and slow
The magic of a Reuben is the crisp, buttery exterior and the melted middle. Butter the bread, cook over medium-low heat, and be patient so the cheese melts before the rye scorches. A press or a second pan on top keeps everything in even contact.
- 2Drain the kraut
Wet sauerkraut makes a soggy sandwich. Squeeze it dry in a clean towel, and warm it in a pan first to take off the raw edge and concentrate the flavor. This one step is the difference between crisp and limp.
- 3Make the dressing yourself
Russian or Thousand Island dressing is easy to whip up from mayo, ketchup or chili sauce, and a little relish. Homemade tastes fresher and lets you control the sweetness and tang. Make a little extra for dipping.
- 4Try a Rachel instead
Swap the corned beef for pastrami or turkey and the sauerkraut for coleslaw and you get a Rachel. It is a lighter, tangier cousin worth knowing. A roasted-mushroom version makes a satisfying vegetarian option.
- 5Serve it diner-style
A crunchy dill pickle and a handful of kettle chips are the classic sides. A dark beer or a cream soda stands up nicely to the richness. Cut the sandwich on the diagonal for the full effect.