Real lemons, no shortcuts
Lemon meringue pie lives or dies on the quality of its lemon, and bottled juice simply will not do here. In a filling this bright and pure, bottled juice tastes flat and faintly metallic, while fresh lemons deliver both the juice and the zest that carries most of the aroma. Plan on several lemons, and roll each one firmly on the counter before juicing to break down the internal segments and free more liquid. Zest before you juice, since it is nearly impossible to zest a squeezed, floppy lemon.
The curd is a cooked custard
The filling is a lemon curd thickened with egg yolks and a little cornstarch, and it demands attention rather than skill. Cook it gently over moderate heat and stir it constantly so the yolks thicken smoothly instead of scrambling into sweet lemon eggs. Let it come to a full, slow bubble so the cornstarch fully activates and the filling sets up properly once cooled. Rushing or underheating this step is the usual reason a slice weeps a puddle later. Straining the finished curd guarantees a silky texture.
Building a stable meringue
Meringue is temperamental but predictable once you respect its rules. Use room-temperature egg whites and a spotlessly clean bowl, because any trace of yolk, fat, or grease will keep the whites from whipping to full volume. Beat them to soft peaks, then add the sugar gradually rather than all at once, and a pinch of cream of tartar helps stabilize the foam. Keep beating until the meringue is stiff, glossy, and holds a firm peak that stands straight up when you lift the beater.
Seal it, brown it, cool it slowly
The last steps prevent the two classic meringue failures, shrinking and weeping. Spread the meringue over the filling while that filling is still hot, and be sure to push it all the way out to touch the crust on every side. That seal anchors the meringue and stops it from pulling away and sliding as it cools. Brown the peaks in a hot oven or with a kitchen torch, then let the whole pie cool slowly at room temperature rather than shocking it in the fridge, which limits those beads of syrup on top. Tart, sweet, and dramatic, National Lemon Meringue Pie Day is worth the fuss.
How to celebrate
- 1Use real lemons
Bottled juice tastes flat and slightly metallic in a curd this pure. Fresh lemons give you both juice and zest, and the zest carries most of the aroma. You will need several; roll them firmly before juicing to get the most out of each.
- 2Cook the curd properly
The filling is a curd thickened with egg yolks and a little cornstarch. Cook it gently and stir constantly so the eggs do not scramble, and let it come to a full bubble so the starch activates and it sets. Rushing this step is why fillings weep.
- 3Beat the meringue right
For a stable meringue, use room-temperature egg whites and a spotlessly clean bowl with no trace of yolk or grease. Add the sugar gradually once soft peaks form. A pinch of cream of tartar helps it hold. Beat to stiff, glossy peaks.
- 4Seal and brown it
Spread the meringue while the filling is still hot and push it all the way to the crust edges. That seal keeps it from shrinking and sliding. Brown it in the oven or with a kitchen torch, then cool the pie slowly to limit weeping beads.