Why November 28
French toast gets its own day at the end of November, a fitting spot on the calendar when the mornings are cold and a warm, custardy breakfast feels like a small act of self-care. The dish is ancient, far older than its French name suggests. Roman cooks were already soaking bread in milk and egg and frying it centuries ago, and nearly every culture with day-old bread has invented some version of it.
The French name most cooks know, pain perdu, means lost bread, a nod to the whole point of the dish: rescuing bread that would otherwise be thrown away. That thrifty spirit is worth keeping in mind today, because the best French toast starts with bread you might have written off.
Start with stale bread
Fresh, soft bread turns to mush the moment it hits the custard. You want slices that are a day or two old and slightly dried out, because firm, thirsty bread drinks up the egg mixture and holds its shape in the pan. Thick-cut challah, brioche, or a sturdy country loaf are the gold standard. If your bread is too fresh, leave the slices out for an hour or dry them briefly in a low oven.
Nail the custard
The soak is where French toast is won or lost. Aim for a custard rich in egg but loose enough to penetrate, roughly one egg for every quarter cup of milk or cream, plus vanilla, a pinch of salt, and cinnamon. Whisk it well so no stringy whites remain.
Give each slice a real soak, several seconds a side, so the custard reaches the center, but pull it before it falls apart. Cook on medium heat in a mix of butter and a little oil; the oil keeps the butter from burning while the butter delivers flavor and browning.
Low and slow beats hot and fast, because a screaming pan burns the outside before the custard sets within.
From skillet to casserole
Cooking for a crowd is where French toast really shines. Assemble an overnight baked version by layering soaked bread in a dish, refrigerating it, and baking it in the morning while everyone wakes up. You get the same custardy interior with none of the standing-at-the-stove flipping.
Finish with real maple syrup, a dusting of powdered sugar, and a handful of berries. Whatever you pour on top, today is the day to turn yesterday’s forgotten loaf into the best thing on the table.
How to celebrate
- 1Start with stale bread
Fresh, soft slices turn to mush the second they hit the custard. Use bread that is a day or two old and slightly dried out so it drinks up the egg mixture and holds its shape. Thick challah, brioche, or a sturdy country loaf are ideal.
- 2Get the custard right
Aim for a mix that is rich in egg but still loose enough to soak in, roughly one egg per quarter cup of milk or cream. Add vanilla, a pinch of salt, and cinnamon, and whisk until no stringy whites remain. Soak each slice a few seconds per side so the custard reaches the center.
- 3Butter and oil the pan
Cook over medium heat in a mix of butter and a little neutral oil. The oil keeps the butter from burning while the butter gives you flavor and even browning. Resist cranking the heat, since a screaming pan scorches the outside before the middle sets.
- 4Bake it for a crowd
Feeding a group is where a baked overnight version shines. Layer soaked bread in a dish, refrigerate it overnight, and bake in the morning while everyone wakes up. You get custardy interiors with none of the standing-and-flipping.
- 5Finish it well
Real maple syrup, warmed so it does not chill the toast, beats pancake syrup every time. Add a dusting of powdered sugar and a handful of fresh berries. A little whipped cream never hurt anyone on a slow morning.