Not the juice in the shelf-stable jug

American apple cider is one of fall’s great pleasures, and it is worth clearing up what it actually is. Cider here means fresh-pressed apple juice that is unfiltered and unsweetened, which is why it looks cloudy and tastes vividly of whole apples rather than the clear, uniform sweetness of filtered juice. It is usually sold refrigerated and is non-alcoholic, distinct from the fermented hard cider you would find in the beer aisle. National Apple Cider Day lands on November 18, right in its seasonal prime.

Warm it, spice it

Cold cider is refreshing, but warm cider is transcendent. Pour it into a pot with a cinnamon stick, a few whole cloves, a star anise pod, and a strip of orange peel, and heat it gently, below a simmer, for twenty minutes or so. The spices bloom, the aroma fills the house, and you have a drink that tastes the way a hayride feels. A slow cooker on its warm setting does the same job hands-off and keeps a batch ready for hours.

Fresh cider gently mulled with warm spices is autumn distilled into a mug.

Go to the source

Few things beat cider bought where it is pressed. Fall is peak season for orchards and farm stands, many of which run their own press and sell cider by the jug, sometimes still warm from the day’s pressing. Watching apples turn to juice is a genuinely fun family outing, and local cider almost always tastes better than anything shipped. Buy extra and freeze what you cannot finish; it keeps for months.

Beyond the mug

Cider is also a useful ingredient. Reduce it slowly on the stove and it becomes a thick, tart-sweet syrup that is fantastic on pancakes, whisked into a vinaigrette, or stirred into cocktails. It makes an excellent braising liquid for pork and a flavorful base for glazes and dressings. For a grown-up party version, keep the mulled pot non-alcoholic and set out spiced rum or bourbon on the side so guests can spike their own. Keep in mind that fresh, unpasteurized cider is perishable and should be refrigerated and used within a week or so, or frozen for the long haul; if left too long it will slowly begin to ferment on its own. That is a feature, not a bug, if you are curious, but worth knowing. On November 18, grab a jug of the cloudy stuff, warm it with spices, and taste the season.

How to celebrate

  1. 1
    Know cider from juice

    In the United States, apple cider is fresh-pressed, unfiltered, and unsweetened, which is why it is cloudy and tastes more like a whole apple than clear, filtered apple juice. It is usually sold refrigerated or at orchards in fall, and it is different from alcoholic hard cider.

  2. 2
    Warm and spice it

    Cider is wonderful gently heated with a cinnamon stick, a few cloves, a star anise pod, and a strip of orange peel. Warm it on the stove or in a slow cooker below a simmer for twenty minutes. The whole house will smell like autumn.

  3. 3
    Go visit an orchard

    Fall is peak cider season, and many orchards and farm stands press their own. Buying local cider, sometimes still warm, and watching the press work is a great outing. Bring a jug home and freeze whatever you cannot drink right away.

  4. 4
    Make it a mulled party base

    Spiced hot cider is one of the easiest crowd-pleasers for a fall or winter gathering. Keep a pot warm and let guests help themselves; set out spiced rum or bourbon on the side so adults can spike their own cup.

  5. 5
    Turn leftover cider into more

    Reduce cider down to a thick, tangy syrup for pancakes and cocktails. It also makes an excellent braising liquid for pork, a base for salad dressing, and a flavorful glaze. Do not let the extra go to waste.