Since 2012, March 24 has marked Gelato Day across Europe, a celebration of the artisan frozen treat that Italians have perfected over generations. Gelato is not simply Italian ice cream. It is its own thing, and knowing the difference makes it taste even better.
What makes gelato gelato
Two things set gelato apart. It is churned slowly, so it takes in far less air than American ice cream and ends up dense and elastic rather than fluffy. And it leans on milk more than cream, which keeps the fat lower and lets the actual flavors, pistachio, hazelnut, lemon, come through cleaner and stronger. The result is a spoonful that tastes more intensely of itself.
Served warmer, on purpose
Gelato is kept and served a few degrees warmer than ice cream. That is why it feels so soft and silky and why it clings to the spoon instead of forming hard little pellets. The tradeoff is that it melts quickly, so it is meant to be eaten right away, standing on a street corner or sitting on a bench, not saved for later.
How to spot the real thing
When you find a gelateria, read the counter. Towering, neon mounds of gelato often mean added stabilizers and whipped-in air; the good stuff usually sits flatter in covered metal tins, in muted natural colors. Real pistachio is a dull khaki, not bright green; real banana is grayish, not sunshine yellow. Ask for a taste, which any decent shop offers, and ask what was churned today.
Denser, milkier, warmer, and best the day it is made.
Make it at home
You can get close in your own kitchen. If you have an ice cream maker, look for a true gelato base, which uses more milk and less cream than a standard custard, and chill it completely before churning for the smoothest texture. No machine? No-churn methods exist too. Either way, do not over-freeze it. Pull it out to soften a little before serving so it has that signature silkiness.
The affogato shortcut
If you want one perfect thing today with almost no effort, make an affogato. Put a scoop of plain fior di latte or vanilla gelato in a glass and pour a hot shot of espresso over it. Dessert and coffee at once, hot against cold, bitter against sweet, it is hard to beat.
How to celebrate
- 1Find a real gelateria
The best way to celebrate is to visit an artisan gelato shop rather than buying a tub. Look for gelato stored in covered metal tins rather than piled in towering, brightly colored mountains, which often signals stabilizers and air. Muted, natural colors, a grayish pistachio, a pale banana, are a good sign.
- 2Know how it differs from ice cream
Gelato is churned slower with less air and made with more milk than cream, so it is denser and more intensely flavored. It is also served a few degrees warmer than ice cream, which is why it feels softer and silkier on the spoon. That warmth is why it melts fast, so eat it promptly.
- 3Taste before you commit
A good gelateria will happily give you a small taste on a tiny spoon. Use it, because the difference between a fresh, milky fior di latte and a dull one is obvious once you try. Ask what was made today; artisan gelato is best within a day or two of churning.
- 4Make it at home
You do not need a machine to try. Search for a no-churn gelato method, or if you have an ice cream maker, gelato recipes use a higher proportion of milk and less cream than American ice cream. Chill your base thoroughly before churning for the smoothest texture.
- 5Pair it like the Italians
Try an affogato: a scoop of fior di latte or vanilla gelato drowned in a hot shot of espresso. The hot-cold, bitter-sweet contrast is one of the simplest great desserts there is. It doubles as dessert and coffee in one glass.